GENERAL - ALL LADDERS

These ladders are generally carried on side mounts on pumpers/engines or are mounted internally under the turntable of the aerial device/boom of the ladder truck. Maintenance of these ladders is a simple task normally required only once every 6 months UNLESS your department has a higher run frequency than approximately 100 runs a month. In the higher usage bracket, we suggest you increase your maintenance to every 3 months or sooner.

NOTE: Training Schools, etc. - We suggest you do your general maintenance at least monthly. General maintenance for ladders is a simple process of taking a little time to visually inspect all the parts, beams, fasteners and rungs for damage or wear.

LADDER LOGS

At the time of inspection, we suggest you start/create a maintenance log for each ladder. This log can then be used to supplement your annual testing log for each ladder and will provide a useful history to be able to track any and all ladder damages or repairs that may happen.

Date: _______________________

Ladder Type:
_______ Ext.   _______ Roof   _______Other

Length: ________________________

Parts:

Feet:	_____ OK	_____ Not OK
Locks:	_____ OK	_____ Not OK
Rope/Cable:	_____ OK	_____ Not OK
Beams:	_____ OK	_____ Not OK
Rungs:	_____ OK	_____ Not OK

Noted Problems: (When and where for future reference)

________________________________________________________________

Visual (small dents:

________________________________________________________________

Corrections required:

________________________________________________________________

Date fixed, etc.:

________________________________________________________________

Ladder sections cleaned and rewaxed and returned to service:

________________________________________________________________

Date and Signature:

________________________________________________________________

NOTE: Create your own log form or use ours, it doesn't matter, but please do it.

The idea of regular maintenance and a written log is to be able to track any problems before they can become accidents waiting to happen.

Regardless of the manufacturer, age or material, all ladders will extend and retract easier and smoother if the contacting parts have some lubrication on these surfaces. Did you ever notice that a ball bearing rolls much easier and lasts a lot longer if you supply a bit of oil or grease?? Whenever surfaces rub together, you must lubricate or friction increases.

DUO-SAFETY LADDER suggests plain old candle wax or paraffin wax as your best lubrication.

NOTE: Do not forget to coat the lock parts (lock hook and finger) with wax as this reduces the wear on the rungs and these parts move over the rungs and these parts move over the rungs every time the ladder is used (see the section on ladder locks/pawls for further details).

CLEAN and WAX and INSPECT every 6 months to keep the ladder accident free. Be sure your ladder is ready to use and it will always be ready to carry you to greater heights.

ALUMINUM LADDERS:
Solid Beam or Truss Beam

MATERIAL - 6061-T6 alloy - minimum yield 38,000 p.s.i. - conducts electricity.

CLEANING: Soap and water works well - be sure to flush inside the rails and rungs to clear same of road salts, etc. We suggest any liquid car wax and fine steel wool to buff the surface to a smooth finish. Be sure to clean and rewax the slide areas at the same time. Be sure to check any heat sensor labels as you clean and wash and try not to wash away the labels. (Replacement labels are readily available from the ladder manufacturer).

BEAMS AND RUNGS: Aluminum is a malleable metal and is subject to dents and nicks, etc. NOTE: Small dents and/or nicks on the beams and rungs are not uncommon and are not a cause for alarm. If you have any concern about any dents, etc., we suggest a load test to be sure the dents are not serious. Be sure to record the location and size for future reference. REPEAT: Be sure the rungs are all tight as the rung to rail joint is the only thing that holds the two beams together. If any rung is loose - remove the ladder from service and repair before further use.

FIBERGLASS LADDERS:

CLEANING: Soap and water works well - be sure to flush inside the rails to clear same of road salt, etc. We suggest any car wax available as a suitable surface restorer. Use approximately the same care and clean up required as any automotive finish would require. Be sure to check all rungs and other parts for tightness when cleaning and be sure to rewax so the sections will slide easily.

Fiberglass ladders are not malleable and do not dent; however, nicks and scratches and scrapes can be very common. If you have any doubts, we suggest a load test to be sure the nicks and scratches are not serious. Repairs of small surface nicks and scratches generally require only slight sanding of same and an application of clear epoxy glue to the nick or scratch. Be sure to sand smooth after the glue dries. NOTE: This type of repair is only to be used for small surface scratches, etc. and only after a load test has been passed.

WOOD LADDERS:
Solid Beam Models

CLEANING: Soap and water works well to clean all surfaces. Do not soak wood ladder rails or rungs with excessive water or water pressure as this tends to swell the wood and/or peel the finish from the wood. Wood ladders are normally coated with a clear varnish finish to protect the wood from the elements and to help it remain non-conductive. After cleaning, be sure to rewax all contact surfaces so they will slide easily. If the varnish finish has become scratched, nicked, dented or damaged, we suggest immediate spot repair of the bare wood to preserve the wood and keep the ladder non-conductive.

FACT: Wood rails and wood rungs expand and contract with changes of both humidity and temperatures. Because of this problem, it is very important that rung tightness is checked regularly and any and all rung tie rods be checked to be sure they are tight. REMEMBER: Only the rung to rail joint holds the side beams together. In cold regions of the country, the heating of the fire station causes the rungs to become loose as the wood shrinks from the loss of moisture.

Wood Beam Truss Models:

These wood models are constructed with top and bottom wood pieces and truss blocks/rung blocks between the top and bottom wood truss rails.
WARNING: The wood joints/glue joints between the blocks and strips are very likely to fail if the bolts and nuts are not kept tight. You must be sure these bolts are tight before any load testing is ever done. If you test without tight bolts, you will fail your glue joints and fail your ladder. These glue joints must have the tight bolt assemblies as a back up to support the glue joints during any load testing that approaches the maximum capacity of the ladder - 500 lb. horizontal load test/annual load test.

REMEMBER: It is 4 times harder to carry the load horizontally/flat than it is at 75 degrees or in erected position.

The visual inspection part of your maintenance program becomes very important on any wood ladder as most noticeable damaged areas require immediate attention and repair just to maintain the varnish finish and keep the wood from deteriorating.

SPECIAL TYPES OF LADDERS

ROOF HOOKS: Fire service roof ladders are supplied with spring loaded, directionally swiveling and locking hook assemblies capable of 1,000 lb. load per hook/2,000 lb. load per pair. These roof hooks normally only require occasional cleaning to maintain proper operation - soap and water works well. If the points are dull - file sharp and cover with a bit of paint. If the springs become weak - please call the factory for replacements and instructions.

FOLDING LADDERS: Maintenance is again the same as the general maintenance covered earlier - refer to the proper section covering the type of material you have in service. Soap and water works well for cleaning purposes. We suggest you check the rung assembly rivets regularly to be sure they are not worn excessively.

When these rung mounting rivets become sloppy and loose, we suggest you replace the ladder as these rivets are brass and are meant to provide a hinge/bearing assembly for this folding rung assembly. These are not field replaceable without special tools, and these tools are not available because of cost.

Be sure the lock assembly is also tight and properly locks the ladder in the open position. These lock assemblies can be tightened - carefully - with a hammer and punch. Please call us if you are not sure.

A-FRAME/COMBINATION LADDERS: Please refer to the earlier covered sections for general maintenance in reference to materials of the ladders you have in service.
HINGES/LOCK ASSEMBLIES: Be sure to inspect the hinge hardware and fasteners and replace anything that appears to be worn, damaged or rusty. A few drops of any type of oil works well on the hinges and of course, soap and water works well on all the other parts. Be sure to check the spreader arms, bars and parts to be sure everything still works and fits together properly. These parts are vital in the A-frame position and must be able to properly engage before the ladder would be safe to use in the A-frame position.

35-A JACKKNIFE LOCKS: These locks must be engaged before using the ladder as a single ladder. Also, please note that the hinge on this model must be under the ladder/bottom side as you climb to be in the proper use position. This allows the butt ends of the rails to pinch together under load rather than allowing all the load to be on the locks. ***Use with the hinge on top of rails is not safe.

POMPIER LADDERS: Pompier hook maintenance basically consists of cleaning, sharpening with a file and painting to stop any rusting that occurs over time.

Rung to shaft hardware - inspect and tighten or replace if anything becomes loose.

Be sure to check the solid steel rivets that hold the hook to the shaft. If any looseness starts at this point, tighten the fasteners at once. If this is no longer possible - shaft enlarged - we suggest you drill out the rivets and cut the shaft back approximately 6" and redrill and refasten with at least 5/16" steel bolts and lock nuts. Call the factory for further information.

LADDER PARTS/ACCESSORIES:

Spring operated, automatic lock assemblies that engage and lock upper sections to lower sections, always operating in pairs.



Duo-Safety Spring Lock Assembly

1. Lock housing & cover plate (not shown)
2. Lock hook
3. Finger (note position)
4. Spring
5. Mounting bolt holes
6. Shoulder bolt hole

These lock assemblies always have a rung mounted between them. This rung that is used between the locks is the only rung (except for some roof hook models) that is not fastened to the side rails. Because these rungs are not mounted to the side rails, we are forced to use a special rung mount bracket. The rung is fastened to this by 4 each rivets, which must be removed and replaced if you remove the locks. We suggest you request our lock housing repair kits before you remove the locks. This kit has all the replacement fasteners and new springs that are normally required, plus instructions. Please follow the instructions closely so proper lock function can occur.

NOTE: Lock assemblies are to be tight, but you can crush the housing and pinch the lock parts if you over tighten the mounting bolts. Be sure to flush the housings with soap and water and apply some oil to the pivot points before you return the ladder to service.

NOTE: If the rung mount bracket cracks or becomes broken, please remove same and replace with the new factory replacements available. You only have to remove these brackets to replace same - do not remove the lock housings to replace only the rung brackets. Please call if you have any questions.

PRONG FEET/SPIKES/BUTT SPURS and END CAPS: These parts are either aluminum or steel and are fastened to the side rails with rivets and/or bolts. Be sure to check these parts for shape and tightness and replace or tighten as needed when you are checking the rest of the ladder assembly. Bolts and rivets have been known to be sheared off and/or loosen after walking a ladder or using it to break windows and doors. Please check these parts.

SAFETY SHOES: A rubber padded extra swivel foot or shoe mounted to the bottom of the section. These rubber safety shoes are offered as a ladder option to the standard prong foot/spike. The rubber safety shoe is meant to be used on hard, smooth surfaces where spikes may slip because they cannot dig in. These safety shoes also may rust, and because of this, they require cleaning and checking at least yearly. NOTE: Replacement rubber pads are available from the factory.

PULLEYS and HALYARDS: All larger extension ladders are supplied with halyards (rope) and pulleys so the upper sections can be easily extended.

PULLEYS: The present pulleys are all aluminum with brass oil-lite bushings supplied either as single or double sheave. These pulleys are available as replacements for all of our older models. Please call for exact application details as we use several configurations with and without rope mounting features. Cleaning and oiling of pulleys is a good idea - recommended once a year.

HALYARDS/ROPE: All rope furnished with all Duo-Safety Ladders as standard still continues to be pure manila rope. The factory still uses manila rope because it still offers the least expensive and best combination of desirable features available in rope today:

• Soft - not stiff
• Abrasive - does not slip in gloves
• Will not stretch with heat exposure
• Has a minimum yield of at least 825 lbs. (No ladder requires more than 75 lbs. to raise)
• Readily available for replacement in any local hardware store - when it wears out

However, halyard replacement can be any rope material you choose - we don't mind at all.

SPECIAL NOTE: The factory is not able to provide larger diameter pulleys because the space between sections is so small. We are stuck with small ones and this causes the rope to wear rapidly. If in doubt, always replace the rope!

ROPE END FASTENERS: Always be sure the rope thimble is in place at the end where the rope attaches to the rung so the rope is not cut by any sharp corners. The factory has always opened the twisted rope and passed the rope back through itself at least twice to secure same. This method of fastening is as strong as the rope itself. Duo-Safety does not object if any fire department wishes to add any extra safety features or accessories to any ladder that the department may deem to make the ladder safer and/or easier to use.

FIRE LADDER LABELS: Safety is a shared responsibility between the product manufacturer and the user. The factory cannot make any ladder fool proof if they are used by fools.

One set/pair of Danger/Electrical/Angle labels are required for each ladder. The labels should be placed at the bottom of the ladder, outside the rail of the base section, both sides, between the 4th and 5th rung up from the bottom. Be sure the left label is placed on the left side, and the right label is placed on the right side. If placed on the wrong sides of the ladder, they will not make sense for ladder placement.

HEAT SENSOR LABELS: These are visual warning labels furnished on all aluminum and fiberglass ladders since January, 1984.

These labels are heat sensitive material that turn black if any heat is ever present that is greater than approximately 300 degrees F. The 300 degree F temperature is used because once aluminum fire ladder materials (6061-T6 alloy) reach this 300 degree F (even if only for a moment), the ladder material may have lost at least 25% of it's load capacity. This heat exposure effect is not reversible in the ladder and can continue to accumulate over it's entire life.

NOTE: If any heat sensor label becomes black - remove the ladder from service at once and have the ladder load tested before the ladder is ever used again. If the ladder passes the load test - you have had a false alarm - replace the heat sensors and return the ladder to service. Replacement heat sensor labels are only available for ladders that have passed the load test. If the ladder does not pass the test, we will not supply you with new labels. Call the factory for details.

REMEMBER: Heat sensor labels that look OK do not make the ladder safe to use.

N.F.P.A. now requires 4 heat sensors and one instruction label per ladder section. Each heat sensor has an expiration date printed on them. Any expired labels must be replaced. Place 2 heat sensor labels below the 2nd rung from the top of each section (1 on the right rail - 1 on the left side) inside the rail. Place the other 2 heat sensor labels (one with instruction label) below the middle of the section inside the rail. (1 on the right rail - 1 on the left side)

CONCLUSION: